I found the problem.  My LAN router had the very helpful SIP application gateway setting turned on.  This was changing the IP addresses in some, but not all, SIP messages that passed through it - and only from UDP.

>From Kamailio's point-of-view I was not behind a NAT.  However, the application gateway setting itself still wasn't doing enough to make calls work.

Thanks for you help,

Peter

On Mon, 2011-04-11 at 17:36 +0300, Juha Heinanen wrote: 
Peter Dunkley writes:

>         if (nat_uac_test(flags))
>             xlog("NAT'd\n");

put xlog call printing contact header before the if, replace flags with
"1", and add also else part.  then make the udp test and send result to
the list.

-- juha

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-- 
Peter Dunkley
Technical Director
Crocodile RCS Ltd